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"At a train station on the Serbian border with Croatia I watched as hundreds of refugees in a long line slowly shuffled towards their destiny. It felt like history and I suppose it was history and is history, and you realise why anyone who has experienced history hates it so. It was minus 16, the sky was blue, and there was an odd silence in which all that could be heard was the tramp-tramp-tramp of hundreds of feet somehow falling in time together. It was the sound of history, the most desolate sound I have ever heard."